Jennifer and I delighted in the Coromandel area of the North Island of New Zealand

Exploring New Zealand and Australia on a Mother/Daughter Trip

Celebrating my birthday in Los Angeles with our daughters by attending the Sound of Music Sing a Long at the Hollywood Bowl, our youngest broached the topic of a 30/60 mother and daughter travel trip. I was turning 60 that year and she would be turning 30 in three months. We should go somewhere, she mused. Returning home to Colorado, I began the exciting task of planning a two week trip to two countries that deserved a month in each !

Here is how our travels became a perfectly orchestrated trip.

We flew Air New Zealand out of LAX into Auckland, New Zealand and were blown away by the service of this airline. Definitely top notch.

Arriving at 6 a.m., we picked up our car from Hertz and opted to get the $3 per day GPS. I was going to drive an automatic for this trip, but I would have to drive on the left side of the roads. Even though I had downloaded the maps in Google Offline, I would be driving and not be the usual road navigator. I wanted to make this trip easy for Jennifer to be my guide. That made it an easy and well spent expenditure.

The Coromandel

In my research, I found very little about this exquisite region of the North Island of New Zealand, but this area was a favorite surprise for us. We found an overlooked plethora of fabulous activities !

We enjoyed our stay at Tatahei Resort in Hahei. This town is small, but situated perfectly for everything we wanted to experience.

Visit Hot Water Beach, just south of Hahei on Mercury Bay, two hours before and after low tide to find thermal water beneath the surface of the beach. You can actually dig your own small pool that will fill with hot water. Find the low tide schedule at thecoromandel.com.

We hiked to Cathedral Cove, an impressive arch with stunning limestone cliffs and sea stacks. You can park free at the Hahei Visitor Carpark, but our hotel was literally across the street from the beginning of the hike so we packed our water and a snack and strode off. This was such a highlight, from the fern trees to the impressive arch on the expansive beach. I read that you could not walk through the arch during high tide, but a fellow blogger noted that this was not exactly true. We hiked here in the morning during low tide and didn’t even get our feet wet walking through the massive stone arch.

One should take a drive up to Shakespeare Lookout where Captain Cook landed in 1769. Cooks Beach is nestled in between Purangi Estuary and Shakespeare Cliff. The overlook into turquoise water was exquisite. Nearby Lonely Bay is a white sand beach enclosed by steep, rocky headlands. New Chum or Wainuiototo Beach near Whangapoua is accessed via a 15 minute rock-hopping and steep climb.

Jennifer is a hiker so attempting the Pinnacles Hike was on her list of things to do. We drove to Thames on Highway 25, took a right turn on Banks Street at the BP Station to follow Kauaeranga Valley Road up to the parking lot. The stone steps, swinging bridges, and lush surroundings made a great morning hike. The region has numerous hiking options. Take a look at doc.govt.nz to see ideas, like the Wentworth Valley hike that is only 3 km long. They will also note any trail closures.

Matamata and Hobbiton

Our next stop was the small community of Matamata where we stayed at Chestnut Lane Cottage in their lovely guesthouse. Arriving in the evening, Katharine and John greeted us with fresh warm scones and honey butter. We were ravenous and ate them all. The next morning, we chatted with both of them over a huge breakfast of ham and eggs and biscuits before we drove the 3 miles to Hobbiton, an 1100 acre sheep farm that was built specifically as the set for the Lord of the Rings movies. Fifty years before in elementary school in Texas, my sixth grade teacher read every J.R.R. Tolkien book to us during reading time after lunch. So this was fun to experience this movie set with Jennifer who was a huge fan of the series. Our guide was a drama teacher in nearby Hamilton, so he brought the movies to life, even filming Jennifer as she recreated several scenes from the movies like “I’m going on an adventure!”

 

The two hour guided tour walks you around the Hobbit holes, the Mills, and the world famous Green Dragon Inn where we drank a complimentary drink at the end – your choice of cider or beer. It was a wonderful experience.

Rotorua

Driving to Rotorua, we discovered a dreamscape of winding roads and lime green hills dotted with sheep, twenty million of them ! The green color spectrum was brilliant and we fell in love wit this magical and mystical land. Our disappointment was visible after cresting the hill into Rotorua, however. A plethora of billboards with every style of purported adventure dotted both sides of the road. After the scenery we discovered for the last several days, we were appalled that we were in a “tourist hot spot”. Do you really want to go “zorbing” ?

Instead, we hiked through the Whakarewarewa Redwood Forest just south of town. The forest scent with the sun dappled ferns interspersed between the redwoods made an ethereal setting. This was why we were in New Zealand.

The Waiotapu Scenic Reserve is the town’s thermal wonderland. Although there is sulphur spitting out of the ground almost everywhere throughout the town itself, this Reserve, formed 230,000 years ago, is a very sensory experience. The hot steam and sulphur smells are truly surreal. We did not enter this geothermal park, but on a tip from another traveler we encountered, we drove on to another fun location.

We took a swim instead at Waikite Valley Thermal Pools, just a short drive south of Rotorua. The natural thermal bathing complex is the Te Manaroa natural boiling spring which features several bathing areas amid waterfalls. Instead of sweating around the oozing pits of bubbling mud at Waiotapu, we had a relaxing evening soak before driving back into Rotorua to eat lamb pizza.

Lake Taupo

Heading south the next morning, Jennifer and I drove into Taupo, home to New Zealand’s largest lake. Bikes were available for rent to take a bike ride around the lake. We pulled in to view Huka Falls and walked the bridge over this thundering glacier colored river. Our goal this day was a drive to view Mt. Doom, which is close to the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The drive skirted the southeast side of the lake and we found ourselves driving up to the Whakapapa Ski Area to get our photo of Mt. Ngauruhoe, Mt. Doom in the Rings trilogy. We were so surprised to see that people were skiing here ! We laughed and made snow angels on the side of the road before driving back to Tongariro Chateau to enjoy high tea. Sitting in comfortable chairs in the lobby, we noshed on cheesecake, egg sandwiches, and macaroons as we gazed out the picture windows at the barren landscape of Mt. Doom.

Arriving later in the summer or fall, we could have attempted the Tongariro Alpine Crossing, but I think the extended hike on this bleak landscape would have been too long. Instead, a shorter tramp would be the two hour Taranaki Falls route or the longer five hour Tama Lakes track. Both of them depart from this area of Whakapapa.

But we accomplished what we wanted to see – a photo op with Mount Doom and an afternoon snack. So we were off for our drive north.

Waitomo

Our final destination on this whirlwind drive through the North Island was the Waitomo Glowworm Cave. Still owned by a Maori family, the Glowworm Cave has a 45 minute long tour. Walking through the ginormous cathedral, you load into a canoe for a tranquil fairy like ride. Everyone leaned back and gazed at the tens of thousands of glowing blue dots on the ceiling. It was truly quite mesmerizing and throughly relaxing. I felt a bit like I was encountering a southern evening with jars full of lightning bugs. Jennifer and I both were thoroughly charmed as we rode off to Hamilton for an afternoon coffee break before ending up at the airport for our next morning flight out to Brisbane.

Brisbane and Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary We took an early morning flight into Brisbane so we would have time to visit the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary. This 45 acre site is home to over 130 koalas and their babies. One of the goals of our trip was to hold a koala and this Sanctuary was a fabulous choice. We only had two other people ahead of us for this once in a lifetime event. I was mesmerized by this furry creature and wanted the few minutes to go on forever. They needed a great love squeeze from me ! Our photos were taken and it was over. But so well worth the long flight from Los Angeles to hold this furry creature. We marveled at all of the moms with their babies and took dozens of videos as we enjoyed the wombats, echidnas, and kookaburras, too. Then through the leafy overhangs throughout this Park we discovered the kangaroo pasture. Sitting among the lounging kangaroos, snapping selfie photos with a curious kangaroo, and literally just laughing at the antics as they hopped around us made for a delightful afternoon. We truly could not pull ourselves away from this spectacular experience.

But it was time to drive to Hervey Bay where we had a seaside room at Mantra Hervey Bay. Drinking coffee as the sun rose the next morning, we basked in the warm days we had been encountering.

Blue Dolphin Whale Tour

And we had the perfect day we had for our Blue Dolphin Whale Tour. Our hotel looked over the pier so we walked the few steps over to our boat to begin our 8 am to 4 pm excursion to find humpback whales. And we did ! They were everywhere ! Breaching and swimming lanquidly all around us for the entire day. We were served a delicious lunch as we lounged on our floating animal encounter. I had tears in my eyes as a mother leisurely swam under our catamaran, rolled onto her back and gazed straight up into our souls with these giant eyes as we leaned over the railing. Ahhhh…..

These last two animal encounter days have just been incredible and we cannot believe what we have been so fortunate to see.

 

Hopping off the boat after this delicious day, Jennifer and I bolted to the car to make a quick trip to the nearby town of Maryborough. P.L. Travers lived in this town. The P.L. Travers of “Mary Poppins” fame ! And we were huge fans of the movie and the prequel “Saving Mr. Banks”. We had no idea what we would find here, but it was a quest to be in the same little village that Travers grew up in. Cruising into the downtown, Jennifer spotted a bronze Mary Poppins statue so we quickly parked and took photos. Down that same street was a painted wall with an metal umbrella and large bag in perfect location to take a Poppins photo. We even found the Cherry Tree Lane Library and the Spoonful of Sugar Cafe. We love these kind of discoveries. We stayed the night in a small hotel in Bundaberg.

Airlie Beach

We could have flown from this area up to Airlie Beach, but scarce flights determined that our timing was better, albeit longer, to take a slow drive up the coast of Australia. We stayed at the massive Sea Star Apartments nestled in the trees above the town where we sat on our balcony and looked out over the gorgeous waters. We stayed here for several reasons, but the ability to park our car here for the next three days and being away from the downtown hotels and clubs were important considerations. We chose wisely !

Jennifer and I wanted to visit the Great Barrier Reef and not just for a day trip. So the next morning we met our six new cabin mates at Abel Point Marina. On Ice was the 46 foot catamaran that we chose for our 3 day excursion. Our family is a beach family and we have been snorkeling together since our girls were toddlers. What a grand adventure we were guaranteed to have ! Our boat had a captain and a cook. We were in heaven !

Basking on the netting in the front of the boat, we set sail and anchored a short time later in Hook Passage. Snacks were served and wetsuits were distributed for our first submersion with our snorkels. After floating in the placid bay we ate a wonderful meal of baked chicken and vegetables. The other six cabin mates were from all around the world – London, Vancouver, and a newly married couple from Italy. Chatting around the table, we became fast friends and played card games for hours both nights.

I slept so soundly as I felt the gentle lapping of the waves against the catamaran, but I smelled coffee in the kitchen. Jennifer and I sat on the bow and watched the sun rise over the ocean as we sipped our morning coffee.

 

Our next anchor was off Hook Island. We rode a dinghy to the beach, and followed the trail up the gentle hill to the Whitehaven Inlet overlook. This beach is 99% silica and is so white that astronauts can see this beach from space. We scampered to the beach for photos. We took audio recording of the squeaking sound the sand made as you walked the beach.

We paddleboarded in the bay and watched a turtle moving imperceptibly below us through our glass bottom canoe. The next morning we sang Happy Birthday to Jennifer as she ate a cute birthday cupcake. Then we eagerly jumped into the green sea to snorkel in Blue Pearl Bay and Luncheon Bay. We spotted the Maori wrasse fish with huge lips and coral that looked like pointed cream fingers tipped with purple nail polish. When we motored back to the pier in Airlie Beach, no one wanted to leave. Check out sailing-whitsundays.com for all of their catamaran cruises.

All eight of us met up again at Fish Divine for a birthday celebration of barramundi with pesto and sweet potato fries.

Our final morning in Airlie Beach was at the cute Fat Frog where we devoured vegan muffins and a delicious Americano coffee before we departed to discover one last place, Hideaway Bay. Driving down a dirt road to this lovely swath of white sand beach, we took photos on the low hanging palm tree in our “birthday girl” swimsuits.

As we headed off towards Proserpine Airport for our flight back into Brisbane, we saw yellow road signs for kangaroos. We stopped to snap silly photos of the sign and laughed about how great it would be to actually see them on the side of the road. And just as we chuckled, we DID see kangaroos hopping on the grass. Pulling a quick u-turn, we sat and gazed at numerous wild kangaroos, even spotting a mother with a baby in her pouch.

This was a perfect ending to a delightful trip !

We loved our stay at Riverview, an eclectic motel on Racecourse Road in Brisbane before our Uber picked us up the next morning for our return trip to Los Angeles.

Crikey! It’s time to say Hooroo.

Ma Te Wa !