Seward was our favorite town in Alaska

Alaska Adventures

Alaska. The forested wilderness. The soaring snow capped peaks. The friendly people who truly believe their state is the best and they love living there.

Rick and I with Steve and Sue were totally captivated by the sheer incomparable beauty of the mountains and vast landscape. Living in Colorado, we believe we have the optimum views. But Alaska has colossal peaks and an unparalleled boundless frontier which feels remote, while at the same time, feeling like a small town.

We were in awe of the capacious panorama. And utterly speechless.

 

 

Carla’s Secrets will detail our favorite finds. I also will note the underwhelming aspects of the state. That way, a traveler can create the most amazing visit to this 49th state of the union.

The sign heading into Seward notes, “Seward is the Gateway to the Real Alaska”. And this is so true. If you don’t travel down to Seward, you are missing out on what Alaska is all about. Don’t miss it!

If you love hiking, take a look at alltrails.com. The app is handy when you are driving through the state. There are SO many hikes in Alaska, from easy to difficult and everything in between.

 

 

Moose AKa’s – This Eastern European restaurant is known for their Palacinke, Serbian crepes. We devoured Corba, cauliflower soup, mousakka made with potatoes instead of eggplant, and stuffed cabbage rolls which rivaled Rick’s mom’s recipe. Michael Waring, the owner and chef, even came out to visit with us. You need a reservation. You Want a reservation! 238.9 George Parks Highway, Denali Park. Closed Wednesday and Sunday. mooseakas@gmail.com. Open 4-10.

49th State Brewing Company – With a large outdoor eating space complete with fire pits and cornhole, this eatery fed us two nights. We devoured the grilled salmon BLT and downed it with an Alaskan IPA. The place was jammed each night, and it had a cavernous interior with a long bar and indoor fire pit that one could eat around. 248 Parks Highway, Denali National Park, 907 683 2739.

Denali Primrose B&B – Terry Timeche welcomes you to her home in Healy with a continental breakfast and cheerful, infectious demeanor. We were close to the park and to nature. info@denaliprimrose.com, denaliprimrose.com

McKinley Creekside Cabins – This rustic styled lodging by the rushing creek was just too darned quaint and totally Alaska. From the firepit with board games in the adjacent cabinet to the wooden rockers, we felt totally at home. Located 12 miles south of Denali National Park, this location is a really great lodging choice for exploring Denali. 224 Parks Highway, Denali National Park, info@mckinleycabins.com, mckinleycabins.com

 

 

Savage River Alpine Trail – Driving into Denali National Park for 15 miles, you can park and hike the two mile, switchback trail to a ridge with sweeping views of the valley. The only problem is that it has an elevation gain of 1500 feet. Just take your time, unless you’re a mountain goat!

 

 

Cadillac Cafe – Situated in a strip mall by a gas station, this inocuous little diner had delicious halibut tacos and spinach walnut salad. It made for a perfect lunch stop on the drive from Denali into Anchorage. 49 W. Parks Highway, Wasilla. Open daily 11-8.

Thunderbird Falls – This easy hike is a two mile round trip at mile 25.2 on the Denali Highway. We took snacks and enjoyed the lovely waterfall. Again, this is a great break on the four hour drive between Denali and Anchorage.

Tony Knowles Coastal Trail – This 11 mile long trail along the coast of Anchorage, Alaska is perfect for biking. There are only a couple uphills to traverse and begins at Second Avenue in town. We got bikes from Downtown Bicycle Rental, 333 W 4th Ave, and they gave us a map to make the Trail into a circular trip. So we biked for 22 miles! The route rode us right by Lake Hood, the world’s busiest seaplane base where there are 190 flights per day. It was such a surprise and we enthralled by the planes landing on the lake. We headed right for a coffee shop after the grueling trip, famished, exhausted, and thoroughly pumped about our highly exercised day.

 

 

Biscuitclub – Homemade biscuits are always worth stopping for and the line was always out the door. They serve “mic drop biscuits” which were to die for with serving names like “Benny (& The Jetts) 1974” which is a mic drop biscuit with two eggs and bacon. Or the “Sammy (Cooke) 1960” that was a biscuit sandwich with eggs and cheese. Oh, and their coffee was top notch. You won’t miss Starbucks at all with americanos to breve to london fog. Do not miss them! They close at 2. 333 W 4th Ave #117, Anchorage

Humpy’s – Featuring a massive bar with Christmas lights, they serve up everything from the sea. We indulged on blackened halibut tacos with spicy aioli and a side of brussels sprouts. These sprouts, topped with bacon, bleu cheese, and a balsamic reduction rivaled our favorite sprout dish in Sequim, Washington! Delish! 610 W 6th Ave, Anchorage

Simon & Seafort’s Saloon – With a view to Eagle Bay, this charming restaurant is a seafood lover’s delight. We noshed on pan seared halibut cheeks in an asiago and panko crust with a side of caramelized onions and asparagus. 420 L St, Anchorage

Las Margaritas – Making a Costco run for water and wine, two important ingredients to any seasonal living, we passed a Mexican restaurant and were ready for a shift from seafood to chicken enchiladas. It was a great choice. 541 W Dimond Blvd, Anchorage

The Bake Shop – Parked beneath the Alyeska Ski Resort, we visited this eatery two times! From the coffee to the massive sweet rolls with a lemon glaze (which we tried to stay away from), we were hooked. We devoured the sourdough pancakes with pure maple syrup from Michigan, but their thick cut bacon was some of the best we have ever slid into our mouths. We will return just to savor their Szegedin Goulash. Do not miss this – the line is always out the door but is SO worth the wait. 194 Olympic Mountain Loop, Girdwood. Closed Tuesdays and Wednesdays.

Virgin Creek Falls Trail – Right outside of downtown Girdwood, this easy hike is only a half mile round trip with an elevation gain of 180 feet along the Virgin Creek. It is a roots and rocks path where the temperate rain forest with lime green moss clinging to the trees and the delightful waterfall make it such a tranquil spot to chill. Just off Timberline Drive in Girdwood in the Chugach National Forest.

 

 

Byron Glacier Trail – Just 18 miles south of Girdwood on the Seward Highway, this 3.2 mile round trip only gains 787 in elevation as you walk along the cascading glacial Byron Creek. There is a snowfield at the base where you can slide and take in the majestic snow capped peaks and creek. Turn around and the Byron Glacier rises above you. Easy signs on the highway guide you to the parking lot.

 

 

Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center – You don’t come to Alaska to visit a sanctuary, but this center affords a view of animals you might not wish to encounter. Like the grizzly. We were so entertained by one bear lolling in the water on his back. And we were so happy that we had not seen him on a hiking path! It made for a nice stop to be within a foot of these animals, yet very safe. Mile 79 Seward Highway, Portage

 

 

Seward – Driving into Seward, there is a sign noting “Seward is the Gateway to the Real Alaska”. This quaint seaside community is a working town and we just adored it! Set on an inlet of the Kenai Peninsula in southern Alaska, it is the gateway to Kenai Fjords National Park where glaciers flow from the Harding Icefield into coastal fjords. Surrounded by snow covered peaks, the fjords are a whale and porpoise habitat in Resurrection Bay. Standing in town, one is just stunned by the sheer beauty. And this is where one can choose from a variety of boat cruises to see the orcas and humpbacks and calving glaciers, kayak through Resurrection Bay, hike the numerous trails in the region, and tromp around Alaska’s most accessible glacier, Exit Glacier.

 

 

Bears Den Alaska Lodging – We were one block from the harbor and a grocery store, and a minute drive into Seward. Staying in Den 3, we had 2 bedrooms and a kitchen for grilling the salmon we caught during our fishing excursion! 221 Bear Drive, Seward

Kayak Adventures Worldwide – Specializing in small group tours, KAW delights the visitor with boat tours, guided kayak trips, and multi-day camping trips. Hannah was our effusive guide who loved living in Alaska and when she spotted harbor seals and otters floating around our kayaks, she was quick to point out her discoveries. And she was just as thrilled as we were when eagles soared over our head, even though she probably watches eagles every day! 328 3rd Ave, Seward. kayakak.com

 

 

Adventure 60 North – When Rick stated that a trip to Alaska would not be complete without fishing for salmon, we located this company who has guides for kayaking and fishing through the area. Gabe was our guide who patiently demonstrated his technique for “combat fishing”. Holding your fishing rod, you drop in the three prong hook into the rushing stream, let it settle, and then, with a quick yank, you pull the hook toward you. And then you repeat until you nab a salmon. This is the only way to catch a salmon and we snagged numerous ones and threw back several. 31872 Herman Leirer Rd, Seward

 

 

Resurrect Art Coffee House – Housed in a converted church, this coffee house and bakery features fresh scones and sourdough muffins and truly great americanos. 320 3rd Ave, Seward

Exit Glacier – Eight miles down Exit Glacier Road off of the Seward Highway is one of the most visited glaciers in the world. The setting has a primeval feel – scoured bedrock, craggy ice, rushing water, and a flourishing forest with towering cottonwoods above the jungled thicket. Walking to the Glacier Overlook Trail would be too easy for us. We decided to take the rock and root trail up to Marmot Meadows overlook on the way up to the Harding Icefield which sits above Exit Glacier and feeds 38 glaciers in southern Alaska. This four mile in and out hike gains 1,800 feet in elevation so we were wishing that we were mountain goats. But the views over the glacier are spectacular. We clocked 18,000 steps on our Apple watch!

 

 

Now for some less than worthy, underwhelming parts of Alaska:

Whittier – We drove through the two mile tunnel (you had to pay $13) which is the same narrow tunnel used by the Alaskan Railroad. Unfortunately, with only 313 people in the town, it truly is only a port town for cruise ships. There are no restaurants and the town looked very pockmarked and scruffy. We drove the four streets and quickly lined right back up to travel back through the tunnel before the train arrived. We just wanted to find a cute place for a nice quick lunch bite on Prince William Sound. Not happening. Blergh.

Denali National Park – Yes, this is the reason people take a cruise and take the train. You must see the old “Mt. McKinley”, the highest mountain peak in North America at an elevation of 20,310 feet. Yet, this massive snow capped dome is almost always shrouded in clouds. And this year, they have only had NINE sunny days out of 90! So seeing the peak was a bit of a bust. The park itself was even underwhelming. Yes, we hiked the Savage Alpine Trail and we had a Mama moose and her baby walk down the road right at our car! But the terrain was sparse, dotted with numerous dead trees and tufts of green grass. It wasn’t forested and peaked and amazing. Just a bit flat, in a valley, and boring. We were shocked. We have been so gobsmacked by the dozens of national parks we have visited and we were so underwhelmed by Denali. The Denali State Park has supposedly the BEST view of Denali over the lake when the sun is out. C’est la vie. The southern end of Alaska, Seward and Homer, are the reason to make it to Alaska !!

 

 

Talkeetna – Granted, this town is close to Denali State Park and the plane excursions into Denali. But it was a bit schotchky and SO touristy. Just really overrun with tourists, not travelers. It wasn’t a “real” town like Seward! We bought a coffee and ate a snack in the park from our backpacks. We didn’t even stop for a real lunch in the 1923 Fairview Inn. Meh.