Views of Venice from Dorsoduro Island

Enchanting Venice

Venice is a compact city which is incredibly unique. It’s all on islands and there are no cars. Which makes it so walkable, yet this town has become so full of pedestrians. This is one of the amazing cities which should not be missed. Just do not follow the crowds. Please do not be afraid to peel off down an alley as soon as there is a group of tourists in front of you. You cannot get lost – you will run into water! Just consider the islands as a maze and explore!

Important Notes:

Venezia Unica is the app to find the vaporetto schedules.

Vaporettos are the boats which are like busses that glide through the Grand Canal.

#1 is the slow vaporetto and #2 is the fast vaporetto.  So if you wish to enjoy a longer, leisurely ride through romantic Venice, take the slow route and gaze at the distinct architecture around you. This should not be missed. Validate your ticket at the white machine, and when you hear the ping, hop on the boat.

A Traghetto looks like a gondola, but they take you from one side of the Grand Canal to the other side. There are 7 points on the Canal where you can find one for a ride. Step in, hand the driver 2 euros, and stand as you cross the Canal.

Titian, the famous Venetian painter, lived at 5113 dei Botteri. His name is over the door. Titian was a 16th century Italian Renaissance painter and his works are scattered all over Venice, including the Doges Palace and numerous churches.

 

Great Walk – one of them!

   Start at San Marco Square and wander to Cavalli to Campo Manin to Cortesia to Verona to Campo San Fantin to Teatro la Fenice to Fruttarol to Barcoroli to Frezzeria to Vallaresso. And then discover your own !

Rialto Market – by the Rialto Bridge – open from 7:30 – 12   Wander this intensely fragrant and popular market.

Great Churches to Visit:

St. Mark’s Basilica – 9:30 – 5:30 M – S, 2 – 5 Sunday

 

 

All visitors of Venice walk through the expansive St. Mark’s Square, with Museo Correr on one end and flanked by the elaborate Basilica of St. Mark on the other. In 829, the remains of St. Mark came to Venice from Alexandria and were interred here in the High Altar. A painting in one of the niches on the exterior of the church portray the men carrying St. Mark’s bones inside a basket. The basilica’s interior is clad with 4300 square meters of gold mosaics from the 12th and 13th century. In fact, Titian and Tintoretto designed many of the newer mosaics. Four bronze horses tower over the entrance, brought to Venice from Constantinople in the third century. This Byzantine complex is striking, inside and out. The church is free, but you can go online to purchase a Skip the Line ticket for 3 euros which allows you to bypass the line at venetoinside.com.

When we visited, we went to the Ateneo San Basso church which faces the side of the Basilica. They will hold your backpack for one hour, give you a claim ticket, and you actually walk to the left of the railing, hold that ticket up and get first in line!

 

 

Santa Maria Glorioso dei Frari – 9 – 6, 3 euros

Although the exterior is rather expressionless, the interior is majestic. Completed in the mid-fifteenth century, the tombs of Canova and Titian are located inside. Canova is one of our favorite sculptors, who created the luminous “Cupid and Psyche” which mesmerized us in the Louvre. Donatello created the statue of John the Baptist which is in this glorious church.

Santa Maria dei Miracoli – 10:30 – 4:30 M – S, 3 euros

This church built in the 15th century, however, is visually stunning on the outside. Surrounded by canals and small alleys, this church looks like a fat piece of white marble wedding cake. It is lit up at night, so it is a wonderful walk by while devouring a yummy gelato cone.

San Georgio Maggiore – 9 – 7, Daily

Ride the vaporetto to this island east of the Giudecca area and enjoy the bell tower views out to the Doge Palace and St. Mark’s. This white church houses three gardens, a 17th century library, and works by the great Tintoretto.

Santa Maria della Salute – 9 – 12, 3 – 5:30, Daily

 

 

Located on the Grand Canal on the tip of Dorsoduro island, this lovely church is stunning as you glide down the Grand Canal in a vaporetto. After one third of Venice’s citizens were killed by the plague in 1630, the Senate made an offer to God – stop the plague and we will build you a church. And they did. The huge central space is surrounded by archways and side chapels and was created by white Istrian stone from the Adriatic. Built on 1.2 million wooden pilings, this church remains intact 300 years later. Twelve works of Titian are housed in the massive interior.

Great Squares to Visit:

1. Campo San Margherita

2. Campo San Pantalon –  Visit the church where Fumiani painted on his back for 24 years and on his last brush stroke he fell to his death from his scaffolding. The side chapel, Cappella del Sacro Chiodo, purportedly holds a nail from Jesus’ crucifixion.

3. Campo San Polo – The last Medici ruler was stabbed here and ended their 300 year reign

4. Campo San Giacomo dell Orio in the Santa Croce area – There are lots of coffee shops and eateries here.

5. Campo San Stefano in the San Marco area – Bullfights used to be performed in this square that is lined now with cafes.

Eateries to Visit:

Majer – ask for the specialty of the night from Chef Alessandro

    Sestriere, Campo San Giacomo dell’Orio, 1658

Panini Lampo – great panini sandwiches on the softest bread

   Calle Larga dei Bari, 1162

Tonolo – best cappuccino and croissants

   Calle San Pantalon, 3764

Cantino do Spade – Cassanova ate here

   San Polo, 859

Cicchetti are Venice’s answer to tapas, small snacks that can be eaten in one bit. They are all over Venice.

Boresso – quaint cafe which has delish meatballs

   Santa Croce, 1908

Un Mondo Divino – Try the arancini balls and stuffed phyllo

   Fondamenta Trapolin, 5984

Lovely Lodging

Ca’ Bonvicini – Set along Rio de le Do Torre canal, this refined B&B occupies a 17th century home set in a great central location and included a continental breakfast brought to your room on a tray. We opened our window over the quiet canal and enjoyed the rooftop balcony. This B&B has a very high ranking on Trip Advisor. Santa Croce, 2160.