The ochre cliffs of Roussillon were majestic
Prodigious Provence
In my Fascinating French Finds Secret post, I detailed our itinerary from the Dordogne to the Provence region of France. And now, I need to expand on our Provence experiences. For this area, too, is just a dreamy part of Europe.
While the Dordogne enchants you with castles and winding country lanes, Provence entices you with the Mediterranean Sea and the vast gorges of the hills.
Gordes – the heart of Provence
If there is one place on the bucket list of most visitors to Provence, it has to be Gordes. It’s almost like going to Paris and seeing the Eiffel Tour, it is the iconic Provencal village. The best way for your first experience of Gordes is from afar at the lookout point. Once you are in the village, your perspective is completely different, and you simply can’t appreciate the grandeur upon which you stand.
Exploring the nooks and crannies and hidden secrets of this picturesque hill top town will enchant you. Cobblestone streets, a majestic 16th century chateau and mellow, yellow stoned houses make this the town the poster boy for Provence. Don’t just take it from me, Gordes is a Plus Beaux Villlage, officially one of the most beautiful villages in Provence.
Take time to view the lower fountain where 400 shoemakers worked until the 19th century, when an earthquake deviated the underground water sources and ruined their businesses. Go underground and discover the Caves of Saint Firmin where dedication and hard work by a local family unveiled silos, vats and an olive mill – 7 floors under the main house!
The environs of Gordes are truly marvelous, such as the Cistercian architecture of the Abbey de Senanque where the monks make lavender from the fields that surround it. Relax in the dry-stone huts known as bories that pepper the landscape and offer respite from the sun for those who choose to hike one of the many glorious trails.
Menerbes
Allow yourself time to be swept away by the quiet beauty of Menerbes. Like Gordes, on the other side of the Luberon valley, Menerbes is also officially one of the most beautiful villages in Provence, but you’ll discover a very different kind of soul. The legacy of the famous artists who settled in the village – Picasso, Dora Maar, Nicolas de Stël, Jane Eakin and Joe Downing to name a few – have left their mark. Not to mention the late, great Peter Mayle who lived there and featured the town in many of his novels.
As you walk the cobblestone and narrow lanes passing houses from the 15th, 17th and 18th centuries, you won’t be distracted by postcards and lavender sachets for sale. The mass of tourists tend to stay in Gordes and Roussillon so Menerbes is an ideal spot for lunch and a peaceful stroll through a typical Provencal village. There are two bakeries in the village and a general store. Just enough to pick up some snacks for a light lunch you can enjoy perched on a bench in the shade at the top of the village in front of the 16th century church Saint Luc.
But, the most exciting part of Menerbes is the Musée du Tire-Bouchon in the Domaine de La Citadelle, 601 Route de Cavaillon. 1200 corkscrews from the 17th century to the present are on display. As an avid corkscrew collector for the last 30 years, Rick was in wine heaven.
Venasque
Venasque often seems to be overlooked by visitors to Provence. Perhaps it’s because of its location, perched high on a steep ridge and tucked away on the other side of the canyon from its rival gorgeous Gordes. The unique treasures in this tiny village set up high on a crag, where it almost feels as if you’re on a ship that has set-sail, are endless. Perhaps your favourite will be the “Place de la Fontaine” where you can marvel at the beautiful fountain with its cast iron masks spewing water. It’s amazing to think that villagers still fetched water from here until 1960, when finally running water reached the village homes!
Or your highlight might be the story behind a painting in the church that the village had to fight to get back from the Louvre. The 6th-century baptistery and the “capital of cherries” are two more reasons why Venasque is a top place to visit in Provence. It also qualifies for the label of one of the most beautiful villages in Provence.
Gourdon
After visiting the Waterfalls of Saut du Loup, sit down for a delicious meal at Au Vieux Four in tiny Gourdon. They make a scrumptious risotto piémontais with roast chicken, and divine chocolate gâteau with mango sorbet.
Roussillon
Situated in the heart of one of the biggest ochre deposits in the world, Roussillon is famous for its magnificent red cliffs and ochre quarries. The red, yellow and brown shades of the earth form a striking contrast with the lush green pinetrees. The vivid blue of the Provencal sky and the exceptional quality of light make this a magical site. The colors of the stone buildings in town vary subtly from light yellow to flaming red, while the doors and windows are dressed in contrasting colors. The image is just so different from the light stone shades of the surrounding villages and needs to be visited. You can take a walk around the Ochre Trail, or Le Sentier des Ocres. There is a 30 minute or 60 minute hike, but we hiked the 60 minute in less than 30 minutes, and that was with stops for photos along the way.
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